Adventures in India
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(NEW DELHI, India) -- I ndia is a land of extremes. A land where painted elephants, bejeweled camels, buses, rickshaw taxis and ox carts share the same street. A land of desert and sea, great Himalayan peaks and vast jungles teeming with wildlife.
For centuries, India has drawn adventurers from afar, and today it captivates not only hardy travelers, but sophisticated connoisseurs to this variegated land of great religions, temples and ethnic cultures.
The Government of India invited six American adventure companies to explore and consult on new adventures in India. Among them was Venture Up, whom I represented. We landed in Delhi, a great example of India's extremes.
New Delhi reflects it British past. Aside from the old temples, monuments and myriad of characters on the road, some areas of New Delhi could be anywhere -- Guadalajara, Australia, or Rhode Island. But New Delhi stops at night when the street lights go out. Traffic is next to nil, businesses close, and night life is absent save for the contrived nightclubs at finer hotels.
Old Delhi has more character. It makes no effort to win the praise of the discriminating traveler. If you are willing to meet Old Delhi on its own terms, you will find a true uncontrived cultural adventure.
Lively and vivacious by day, Old Delhi is more so at night. It is brown and bustling ...wandering men in swaddling clothes collecting the makings of their next meal, camels in harness, women in colorful saris , busy bazaars, bargaining and banter. Action every hour. "Now this is India," I thought, looking forward to more adventures.
We spent the next two weeks on Uttar Pradesh, a northern state bordering Tibet and Nepal. Uttar Pradesh is India's most populous state, with more than 110 million people, one-sixth of the nation's total. Its 113,500 square miles include Delhi and Agra, home of the Taj Mahal. The conference was in Mussoorie, a mountain top town reached by an endless winding road. Mussoorie was a playground for the Western elite in the early century and appears not to have had any visitors since. Our majestic hotel stood in run down elegance; families of monkeys populated the streets.
A land of snow-capped summits and raging rivers, Uttar Pradesh is the heart of religious culture in India, a nation where religion is way of life. Hindus, Buddhists, Muslims, Sikhs, Jains, Parsis, Christians and Jews make there homes here, as do countless cults and sects, and many share the same beliefs. Two great religions of the world, Hinduism and Buddhism, were born in India. Over the centuries, Hinduism has assimilated elements from most other religions and is followed by 80 percent of the nation today.
India's confusingly varied religious lifestyles are especially evident in Rishikesh, gateway to the sacred shrines of Badrinath, Gangotri, Dedarnath and Yamunotri, which attract pilgrims and travelers of many faiths.
Most of Rishikesh is a step back in time. In this Hindu village where meat is never served, modern billboards tower over people who could have stepped out of the middle ages, many wrapped in orange muslin typical of the yogi. Rishikesh also breaks way to a put-in site for the one-day raft trip we took on the Ganges, or "Ganga" as it is known in India.
We paddled our raft past burning cremation sites on the river's edge, where Hindus bring bodies of dead loved ones for the final ritual. Ashes mix in the sacred waters, facilitating the soul's transition. The river is not very clear and was cold in September. Some of the rapids were mild, others would get you wet, but the raft was never difficult to control.
Most captivating is the Yoga Training Centre at the river's edge. Bustling with activity, Rajasthani women in traditional red saris bathed in the holy river. We stepped out of our raft, looking rather exotic in our orange life vests, and walked onto a long stairway leading up to the village.
Monkeys, cows and pilgrims lingered on the bridge linking the yoga training center to Rishikesh.
Pilgrims swallowed us with their eyes and some followed us. The day was sedate and peaceful, yet my senses were barraged. Nothing can prepare a Westerner for India.
Further down the river we passed a white domed house breaking through the forest, a haven where the Beatles once learned the ways of their guru Maharishi Mahesh Yogi, in an age that brought world attention to the ancient village. We landed on a beach of sacred cows and running children and remnants of rituals at the shore: red, orange and yellow flower petals lay in floating clusters.
Plans called for a trek in the Garwhal Himalaya. "Trekking" is always used to refer to hiking in the Himalayas, but hiking is all it really is. Porters often carry backpacks, leaving hikers to walk at their own pace and mix with the friendly hill people along the way. Routes vary from low angled and easy to steep and difficult.
Garwhal's views rivals Switzerland, but you won't find paved paths and a network of cable cars and trains leading to alpine views. You will see far fewer hikers, if any, and the great white Himalaya looming over tiny farm hamlets whose hardworking inhabitants are delighted to see you.
Hiking in India is not as well known as it is in Nepal. Books and maps on the region are not known to be detailed or wholly accurate. Our trek began in Uttarkashi, where a wide gushing river leads the way to an upward route through the jungle. I shot ahead, about an hour ahead of the group, until monkeys and cats blocked the way. Slowly their sinewy bodies moved through the crackling vines and trees. I froze, unable to raise my camera. I waited for the silence to return and continued onward.
The jungle gave way to rice paddies, a few small villages, alpine meadows and flowers, and a dense forest of pine, oak, deodor and rhododendron. An Indian man passed me anxiously pointing ahead: "Dodital? Dodital?". I nodded. That was our campsite. Why would he ask me the way to Dodital?
He was a Brahmin priest and I met him again in Dodital. His temple was on the banks of a small trout-filled lake. I took off my shoes and he coaxed me inside; I was immediately involved in his ritual. I went along with it but was reluctant to eat the powdery mound he placed in my palm. I thanked him, and he asked me for money -- a common practice I learned later. I gave him some rupees. He pointed to the holes in his trousers. I gave him my last few rupees and left with a bad taste in my mouth.
The next day the route ran across countless streams and we were above tree line in just a few hours. The air was thin and our pace slower. Our camp was set well before sundown. We had reached the high point of the trek. A great panorama of the white Himalaya stood in distant silence. The sun was bright, and it was good that we had umbrellas, as do the hill people, to protect from sun and rain. We sat quietly together -- porters, guides and hikers -- absorbed in our own private thoughts.
As a mountaineer, this was a first for me. When you see the mountain, you head for its base, climb an ice wall or shoot for the summit. But I was trekking now and the summit was just to see, and I knew we'd be turning away and downward to whatever was to come. Certainly nothing I hadn't already seen.
I walked alone past grazing cows, farmlands, quiet meadows and two snorting bulls who were angry with each other, not me. The Yamuna River thundered across the valley, waters crashing from Yamunotri, a sacred shrine drawing thousands of pilgrims each year. I landed in Hanumanchatti, where the pilgrimage trek to the shrine begins.
Hanumanchatti is a dusty town with its own version of convenience stores: a series of wooden shacks providing necessities for the trek. A fresh potato crop sat in great mound in the middle of the village. Merchants, pilgrims and we Westerners mixed with the moving population.
Pilgrims don't always walk the 6.2 mile route to the shrine. Wealthier ones hire men from Hanumanchatti to carry them to the shrine in baskets or sedan chairs. Donkeys are also for hire, many wearing colorful glass beads, which attracted me like a magnet. But the donkey's beads would never be mine. To remove them would be a sacrilege. The beads are blessed at the shrine and donned on the donkey to ensure safe travel. The donkey's owner showed me to the only merchant in town who sold them. It was the first time he sold some to someone who did not own a donkey.
The Pilgrimage
The trek to Yamunotri was not steep, although the border of the path often dropped sharply for hundreds of feet. Safety calls for keeping to the inside of the trail especially when donkeys pass. Villages and teahouses mark the way, and streams are met at many turns. The path was well traveled for October, but the heavy months are really in May and June.
Many of the pilgrims who noticed us were pleasantly surprised to see Westerners on the sacred path. Some stopped us for an inquisition. Sadhus, wandering holy men, never paid us notice. Often smeared with dust and wearing next to nothing, sadhus have abandoned the material world and may own nothing but a bowl for food and drink, and a staff for walking. In many cases, sadhus are former businessmen who have decided their family life and work have served their purpose, signaling the time for their spiritual search.
At the shrine, where sits the temple to the goddess Yamunotri, no pilgrims were talkative. They bathed in the hot springs, steaming holy waters, and participated in rituals at the birth hole of the water a hundred feet above the bath. We kept our distance.
It was late afternoon when we ventured down. Nearing Hanumanchatti at dusk, many pilgrims, some elderly, were still trying to reach the shrine. Few knew the distance that lie ahead, and when they found out they continued upward without hesitation.
At the end of the trek, I was feeling very much at home in a land so often called exotic. There's something about being there that makes life back home absurd. India has a way of pulling you into its experience, as a participant, not an observer. But no matter where you go in India, there may be too much of everything. And if you try to take it in during a single vacation, you'll arrive home needing another.
THE TAJ MAHAL
(AGRA, India) -- A taxi took me on a long dusty road of camels, carts and walking men -- my last vision before entering the dark, echoing chamber leading the way to the great Taj Mahal. The first view of the Taj hits hard and fast. Massive white marble, and overpowering site reflects in a long pool lined with brick and junipers. The Taj pulls you in closer and closer. Two Brahma bulls dragged a mower system across the vast lawns, showing that the centuries-old monument has not wholly given into modern ways.
The Taj rests in timeless splendor on the banks of the sacred Yamuna River in Agra, about 125 miles south of Delhi. The appearance of the Taj, like that of the Grand Canyon, changes with the light of day. Upon seeing it, one instantly recognizes it is one of the great wonders of the world.
Shah Jahan (1592-1666) built the Taj in memory of his wife, Empress Mumtaz Mahal, who bore him 14 children during their 17-year marriage. She died during childbirth in 1629.
The emperor drew nearly 20,000 workers from India and central Asia to work on the mausoleum for 18 years, beginning three years after the empress' death. He appealed to experts from Europe, including French architect Austin of Bordeaux and the Italian Veroneo of Venice. Ustad Ahmad Lahori is believed to have been the main builder. The Taj sits upon a lofty marble platform with a minaret at each corner, not for prayer but for aesthetics. Twin red sandstone mosques stand at each side of the monument. One is used for Muslim ritual, the other simply to balance the architectural design. Arabic inscriptions from the Koran mark the gates and walls of several buildings.
Before entering the Taj, you must remove your shoes. Inside, the walls rise high to a perfectly shaped dome. Semi-precious stones embellish the walls in pietra dura inlays. Two mock tombs rise from the floor's center. The real tombs of Mumtaz and the Shah were placed in a chamber below, a common practice in Indian Mausoleums.
Shah Jahan built many extravagant monuments during his reign and he wanted to build a second Taj in black marble for himself. His plans were thwarted when his son, Aurangzeb, had him imprisoned for reasons unknown. He was locked in Agra Fort -- a red sandstone citadel built by his grandfather - in a room overlooking the Yamuna River and the Taj Mahal.
Agra was capital of India throughout the Mogul Empire (1526-1707). Today it has 700,000 inhabitants, crowded alleys, colorful markets narrow streets and pushy rickshaw drivers. The Taj is not the only outstanding monument found in Agra and its environs. There are several others although none is as famous.
Another popular stop in Agra is the Moghul Sheraton Hotel, which offers visitors a contrived though intriguing experience. A brick stall is reserved for a snake charmer, whose cobras are rumored to be defanged. While I was there, the charmers eyes were on his audience which was more interesting to him than his snakes. Indeed, the snakes would stay upward with the flute music and often lunge toward the unaffected charmer. Fangs or not, I kept my distance.
For $10, elephants can be rented for a tour of the town allowing riders to enjoy a new vantage point of the Taj Mahal as reflected in the Yamuna River. The best deal in town will always be the Taj at night lit by a full moon, when it is open until midnight and the entry fee is, as always, two rupees, or 15 cents.
TRAVEL INFO
Getting there: The most convenient way to fly to New Delhi is on Air India, which provides direct flights from New York.
Accommodations: Hotels in the cities tend to be overpriced. A four-star hotel may be seedy and priced nearly as high as a five-star hotel. Go with the five-star establishments. The Oberoi Intercontinental and the Taj Mahal Hotel are outstanding. The Oberoi caters to Western tastes, while the Taj appeals more to the Asian elite. Government hotels may also be rated with five stars, but their scale tends to be inconsistent. Delhi does have a few hotels in the moderate price range. Request a list from the Government Tourist Office and ask for a recommendation from a reputable tour operator.
Getting Around: Taxis and tour buses are the only way to get around locally. Don't even think of renting a car and taking on the streets alone. Delhi's traffic can be hellish. In mountainous regions, the edges of winding roads often drop for thousands of feet. For trips of long distances, a tour operator can arrange domestic flights were available.
What to do: Arrange your trip with an American travel company before you leave, unless you have weeks to explore India on your own and the patience to experiment with its system. American agencies can connect with tour operators in Delhi, some of whom can accommodate as few as one person on a trip. Excellent tour operators in Delhi include Travel Corporation India, Mercury Travels, Shikhar Travels and Wildlife Adventure Tours. These operators are used by leading American adventure travel companies. Dealing direct can save you a bundle.
For shopping, Delhi has cottage industry markets that sell specialties from each of India's regions. Prices are fixed and may be slightly higher than those charged on the street and elsewhere, but the goods are authentic and quality is guaranteed.
Food: Never drink unboiled or untreated water, avoid salads and always peel fruits. Be wary of ice in your drinks , unless you are in a fine hotel or trusted restaurant.
Indian food is generally very spicy, so you may wish to order yours mild, especially in authentic Indian restaurants. Hotel restaurants usually accommodate foreign tastes.
When in the cities, stick with the finer restaurants' prices are about the same as at Denny's. In the villages and remote areas, teahouses offer a great opportunity to mix with the people. Drink mineral water where available, otherwise have hot tea. When eating in teahouses, make sure your food is fully cooked.
Requirements: Travelers to India must have a valid passport and visa before entering the country. Visa applications may be available at your travel agent. If not, contact the Consulate General of India, 540 Arguello Blvd., San Francisco, CA 94118. No immunizations are required, although a cholera vaccination is recommended.
Language: English is widely spoken in India. Hindi, spoken by about half of the nation, is the dominant language in the north and is often the second language of those who speak English. India has more than 14 languages and 200 dialects. Ask for a guide who speaks Hindi and English.
Survival Tips: Uttar Pradesh is ideal for year-round travel. In the lowlands the weather is warm. The cooler months are November through mid-February when warm clothing is needed in the high country. Respect religious ceremonies. It is often said that India has more religious holidays than days in a year. Keep your distance and keep you camera inconspicuous when witnessing a ritual. Always remove shoes before entering temples and wear modest clothing (shoulders and legs covered) when at any religious site, including on pilgrimages. Talk to the people. If nothing else, say "Namaste," the common greeting meaning "I salute the peace within you." Many Indian people , especially away from the cities, are unaffected by Western ways, yet very interested in exotic travelers from the West. Mixing with them, you will appreciate the openness and friendliness of a people who have not yet learned to put on airs.
My one regret was that I never talked with any of the sadhus, wandering holy men, thinking they knew no English. Later, I discovered that many sadhus are well-educated former businessmen who have abandoned the material world for a spiritual search.
Recommended Reading: Travel Books on India abound. Lonely Planet's India: A Travel Survival Kit is very popular and provides detailed basic information. But if you are interested in small and special places, you will have to find them on your own. They are no longer that way once they reach fame on travel book pages. Insight Guides' India provides an excellent in-depth view of the region and lifestyles of India. Two good novels to read before going are E.M. Forester's A Passage to India and Ruth Prawler Jhabwala's Heat and Dust. John Keay's Into India provides light reading on the India travel experience. For more information on India, contact the India Tourist Office at (213) 380-8855.
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